Luxury Bhutan: Discover the Extraordinary

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Punakha Dzong, the Palace of Great Happiness, is where Bhutan’s rivers meet.

Knowledge and experience go a long way when planning your next holiday, especially when the destination is a little off the beaten path but has always been on your bucket list. Bhutan is such a place, and two of Travel Associates’ most experienced advisors have just returned from their first trip to this deeply spiritual, spectacularly beautiful and historic country, on the eastern edge of the Himalayas.

Karen Majsay from Low and James Neutral Bay has been travelling for 31 years, with her passion for travel ignited on a trip to India and Sri Lanka. Jo Kennedy, from Kennedy Turner in Brisbane, has been spreading her wings for three and half decades, and remembers her love for travel beginning as a teenager on a family trip in the Deep South of the USA. Both Karen and Jo have visited an alphabet of countries in the ensuing years, and have used their knowledge and experiences to curate thoughtful itineraries for many, many clients. Now, they can add Bhutan to that list.

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The Tamchog Lhakhang Suspension Bridge connects visitors to its namesake temple, perched on a hillside overlooking the Paro River.

Karen and Jo flew into Paro, through majestic mountain peaks giving tantalising glimpses of what lay ahead on this uplifting, nine-day journey with andBeyond Travel. First stop was Thimphu, home to the Royal Family and the only national capital to not have traffic lights. Stops at Tamchog Lhakhang, a 15th century temple, to walk across its chained suspension bridge, and another at the Royal Takin Reserve, to see Bhutan’s national animal, the takin, were fascinating. After a night in Thimphu, it was on to Gangtey in the Phobjikha Valley, then the Punakha and Paro valleys.

A Cultural Awakening

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Clad in crimson robes, Bhutanese monks move through ancient monasteries where prayer chants echo across the mountains.

While Bhutan’s majestic scenery takes centre stage, the culture, the people and the essence of Buddhism are just as impactful. Karen said during her time in Bhutan you cannot help but be immersed in Buddhism ‘quite deeply’. “We enjoyed a few different experiences where we were with lamas and teachers. In Thimphu, we had a private discussion with Mynak Tulku, who talked to us about Bhutan and Buddhism. He was completely open to us asking any questions.”

Jo Kennedy also loved talking to Mynak Tulku. “He’s a very wise man, and it was lovely to listen to him and understand a little bit more about what is such a beautiful religion.”

The group attended an evening prayer session at Kuenzang Chholing Shedra in Gangtey, with Karen reporting that the monks were playing music and singing. Jo was equally enchanted, saying “It was mesmerising, the sound of the music, and the rhythm of it. I didn't want to leave.”

In Punakha, a visit to the Sangchhen Dorji Lhuendrup Nunnery followed by blessing ceremony was memorable, with girls from the age of around eight years old. Jo reflected: “All the young girls had their heads shaved. We watched them chat, we watched them chant. They were all very inquisitive of us, and asked us lots of questions, wanted to try our sunglasses on, touch our jewellery, and talk to us.”

Another rich cultural experience was at the Phuba Mandala Display Center in Paro. Jo was transfixed watching a monk create a mandala – a sacred geometric symbol – painted using coloured sands. “He used two fingers and had all these different colours in tiny little pots. The painting was maybe two metres round and he painstakingly did it until it was finished. He was so incredibly talented.”

Karen and Jo both loved making their own prayer flags, using a 300-year-old timber stencil. Jo said: “We painted it with a black tar-like substance, then added the various coloured flags. These flags were placed en route to Tiger’s Nest Temple, where we said a prayer. It was quite emotional.”

Into the Tiger’s Nest

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Taktsang Monastery remains one of Bhutan’s most revered and photographed landmarks.

The Taktsang Monastery, known as Tiger’s Nest Temple, is a one-of-a-kind experience that takes the breath away, in more ways than one. Cloaked in legend, the monastery was built in 1692 around a cave where Guru Padmasambhava, credited with bringing Buddhism to Bhutan, is thought to have meditated in the eighth century, after flying in on the back of a tiger. The monastery is built on a sheer cliff face at 2950 metres, and the trek to get to it is physically demanding. Both Karen and Jo were determined to get to the monastery, a four-to-five hour hike up through a pine forest as both said this was a place they had wanted to go for a very long time. Jo said: “I am not an extreme athlete and I don't do extreme things. It was well worth it.”

Jo credited her andBeyond guide Dorji with getting her to the top after the sole of her shoe came off. They stopped at various stages along the way to rest, breathe, have a drink, and try and fix her broken shoe. Dorji gave her one of his shoes, which fitted, and she made it to the top. Now that’s dedication. “When you got there, you truly understood how and why these monks live there. To sit there and think about life and what's good, what's bad, how do I be a better person. It was so special.”

Karen talked about other walks they did prior to the Tiger’s Nest, which helped them acclimatise to the altitude. “We went for a walk in Thimphu, and it was hard to get your breath. You’re huffing and puffing, walking up hill and down dale. It was so lovely to walk through all the villages, and see the animals, and the Bhutanese people in their world. I couldn’t get enough photos … click, click, clicking away.”

Karen and Jo also enjoyed a gentler walk along the Gangtey-Phobji Nature Trail, hiked up to Gangtey Goemba, a temple that sits on a forested hill overlooking the Phobjikha Valley, and also hiked up to Khamsum Yuelley Namgyal Chorten, a three-storey Lhakhang that was built by Queen Mother Ashi Tshering Yangdon Wangchuck for universal peace and well-being.

Hidden Gems

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A temple of peace and protection, Khamsum Yulley Namgyal Chorten radiates serenity over the fertile Punakha Valley below.

The climb up to Khamsum Yuelley Namgyal Chorten – placing prayer flags on the suspension bridge along the way – had its rewards, apart from the jaw-dropping views over the valley. Karen recounted a hidden gem, an experience that truly elevated the experience. “To be struggling up that climb, which was a couple of hours, we were then surprised and delighted with an amazing gourmet breakfast at the top. It was hidden away, but with a view of the temple and the mountains. To be sitting there enjoying the incredible breakfast, and real, hot coffee, was such a special moment.”

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Breakfast with views of the surrounding valley from the 5-star Gangtey Lodge.

The Bhutanese food was another hidden gem for Karen and Jo. Karen highlighted Ema Datshi, which is Bhutan's national dish. It’s a spicy chili and cheese stew and has a fiery flavour and creamy texture. Jo described it this way: “It had a shot glass with a delicate round ball sitting on the top of it. Inside the shot glass was a soup/stew. You pour it into an eggshell, and put it straight into your mouth and you've got the crunch and the taste of the soup. The food was definitely an unexpected surprise.”

The andBeyond tour also included a cooking class using goods we purchased at a local market, and learning to make Ara in a home in Bali village. Ara is a traditional alcoholic beverage made from rice, millet or wheat, and is enjoyed at all social functions in Bhutanese life.

Accommodation to Love

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The lounge at the Postcard Dewa, Thimphu, a stunning Bhutanese mountain hideout.

Karen and Jo stayed in four exceptional properties featuring amazing architecture, views of the spectacular landscapes, and that evoke the essence of Bhutan.

In Thimphu, Postcard Dewa is a small boutique hotel, with beautiful service and food. The Postcard Dewa, Thimphu, Bhutan is situated amongst the gorgeous green forests surrounding the capital city of Bhutan. The secluded resort is about 20 minutes’ drive away from the city of Thimphu and is completely surrounded by beautiful mountain ranges. The rooms are all very large and luxurious, each featuring air-conditioning, flat-screen TVs and complimentary Wi-Fi. The hotel also features a multitude of facilities designed for guests pleasure such as a fantastic traditional restaurant on site which serves local cuisine. A large spa that features many traditional therapies and an outdoor pool which has a controlled temperature. Guests may also enjoy the stunning mountain hikes which surround the hotel.

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At Gangtey Lodge, each freestanding bathtub overlooks the pristine Phobjikha Valley.

Gangtey Lodge was a four to five-hour drive from Thimphu across four mountain passes, including a stop at Dochu La, a mountain pass peaking at 3140 m above sea level. Created using stone and wood and inspired by Bhutanese farmhouses, each of the 12 farmhouse suites is a private oasis with underfloor heating, individual wood-burning stoves, a separate shower, and a dressing room with double vanity. Unwind by the Swiss fireplace and rejuvenate with a soak in deep roll top baths with sweeping views of the valley below. Jo said: “Waking up here feels like living inside a dream – prayer flags fluttering, pine-scented air, and floor-to-ceiling windows opening to views of ancient monasteries and grazing yaks.”

andBeyond Punakha River Lodge was a standout for Karen. “I’ve stayed in a lot of andBeyond properties but this one 100 per cent stands up to the same level of accommodation I have experienced at their properties in Africa, mainly. The beautiful, tented camp, amazing food and the services, top-notch but really intimate and comfortable like you're part of the family. It is a beautiful property and it is different to many others in Bhutan because it's actually low and on the Mo Chu river. You go to sleep hearing the sound of the water.”

The Lodge is built in traditional Bhutanese style, with its six tented suites, a one-bedroom River House, and a two-bedroom Family Suite, seamlessly blending with the surroundings. It is majestically serene, sitting alongside paddy fields and framed by forested hills. While staying here, visits to Chimi Lhakhang temple, erected in 1499, and Punakha Dzong, built in 1637, are a must. All of Bhutan's kings are crowned at Punakha Dzong and it is strikingly beautiful.

COMO Una Paro is a gem on slopes of the Paro Valley. It has nine private villas and 20 luxury rooms incorporating colourful local craftsmanship into clean-lined modern design, and with exceptional views of the forest, mountains, and valley floor. Built from handcrafted stone, wood, and tiles, the rooms feature wooden furniture decorated in vivid floral designs, and hand-stitched bed linen. The resort’s award-winning Bukhari restaurant offers fine dining menus that incorporates both local and international dishes. Additional facilities include an indoor pool with an open-air sundeck, a fully equipped gym, and a yoga studio. While in Paro, visit Ta Dzong, the National Museum, which was formerly a watch tower in the 17th century. It is from here, that Jo and Karen set out for the trip to Tiger’s Nest Temple.

We Know Because We Go

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Within the walls of Gangteng Monastery, every carved beam and painted motif whispers of timeless Bhutanese craftsmanship.

Karen and Jo both learned a lot about travelling in Bhutan and can’t wait to use this knowledge to help clients make the most of their Bhutan adventure.

Be prepared to spend time driving with a driver and a guide, as you cannot self-drive in Bhutan. It certainly frees you up to just soak up the scenery.

Karen recommends Bhutan for those who love to be outdoors and like walking, as the only way to get to many of the temples is on foot. “Many of the on-mountain hotels also have many stairs, and sometimes you need to walk across a suspension bridge. In the higher altitudes, this can be difficult for some. andBeyond Punakha River Lodge, being lower and on the river, is easier to navigate.”

Jo agrees and also will be recommending Bhutan to those who are open to different cultures and religions. Learning about Buddhism becomes a pivotal and memorable part of the experience. “Bhutan is one of those destinations that will stick in my mind forever. It truly has made its mark on me.”

Speak to a Travel Associates advisor today to plan your own one-of-a-kind Bhutan holiday.